Best of Edinburgh in Autumn: Halloween, Crunchy Leaves and More

Edinburgh in autumn is my favourite Edinburgh for many reasons. For starters, I’ve spent two Halloweens in Edinburgh and neither one felt like enough. The first time I stayed with a couple I met through CouchSurfing, the second I booked a hostel practically leaning against the castle walls and both times made me want to go back every autumn after.

If you’re wondering whether Edinburgh in autumn is worth planning a trip around, this post is for you. I’ll walk you through what the season actually feels like, when to go if Halloween is the draw, where to catch the best autumn colour and what I wish I’d known before my first visit, back when the city was a lot quieter than it is now.

What Autumn in Edinburgh Actually Feels Like

Edinburgh already has a kind of built-in drama to it, all that volcanic rock and medieval stonework and autumn just turns the dial up. The light gets lower and moodier, the wind picks up off the water and the whole city starts to feel like it’s leaning into its reputation.

This is also, unsurprisingly, the best time of year to lean into Edinburgh’s witchy history if that’s part of why you’re visiting. If you want the deeper dive into that side of the city, my Witchy Edinburgh post covers the Witches’ Well, the trial history and where to go for it beyond Halloween season specifically.

When to Visit Edinburgh in Autumn

Early October is your best bet if you want autumn colour without full Halloween chaos. Expect mild days, cooler evenings and the Meadows and Princes Street Gardens turning orange.

By mid to late October, the colours are usually at their best and the city starts gearing up for Halloween in a way that’s hard to miss. Shop windows, pub decor and a general sense of anticipation build for a good two weeks before the 31st.

If you’re specifically there for Halloween itself, book your dates around 30–31 October and expect the city to be considerably busier than it was even a few years ago. My first visit felt like a well-kept secret. My second, a couple of years later, already felt like more people had caught on. That trend has only continued, so plan and book earlier than you think you need to.

Halloween and Samhain in Edinburgh

This is really the heart of why I keep coming back in autumn. Edinburgh takes Samhain, the Celtic festival that Halloween is descended from, properly seriously, and there are usually community-organised celebrations around the city built around fire, procession and the turning of the season rather than costumes for costumes’ sake.

When I went, these were free to attend which isn’t the case anymore. Double check current details before you plan around it since events like this do change year to year. Keep an eye on the Beltane Society website for news on this year’s Samhain (Samhuinn in Scottish Gaelic!).

For something with a bit more Halloween theatre to it, The Witchery, right by the castle, leans hard into the atmosphere, and it’s worth a visit even if you’re not staying for dinner. I’ve written more about the history behind that name in my Witchy Edinburgh post.

Autumn in Edinburgh isn’t only about Halloween though. The Scottish International Storytelling Festival runs in October at the Scottish Storytelling Centre, with a programme that leans heavily into folklore and myth, which fits right in if that’s your kind of thing. Earlier in the season, Doors Open Days gives free public access to buildings around the city that are normally closed off, worth checking the programme for if your dates line up.

Where to See Autumn Colours in Edinburgh

Princes Street Gardens is the easiest autumn walk in the city! It sits right below the castle, which means you get the colour of the trees and that skyline in the same view and it’s flat enough to do without much planning.

Arthur’s Seat is the one worth the effort. It’s a proper climb rather than a stroll, but from the top in autumn you get the whole city spread out with the hills around it turning gold and rust. Go on a clear day if you can, since the view is the entire point.

Dean Village is one of the prettiest parts of Edinburgh and it’s barely a walk from the city centre. From there, follow the Water of Leith Walkway along the river. It’s quiet and peaceful, a good option if you want a break from the crowds elsewhere in the city.

The Royal Botanic Garden is worth the detour too, especially the Arboretum, which is built for exactly this time of year.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh in Autumn

I’ve stayed a few different ways here, from a spare room through CouchSurfing to a hostel a few minutes from the castle and hotels in different areas. For Halloween specifically, staying within walking distance of the Old Town means you’re not relying on transport once the city gets busy in the evening but I find Edinburgh also very walkable! Leith Walk* is a great area, so is Stockbridge, Foutainbridge, West End, Haymarket and Holyrood. I’ve enjoyed staying in Marchmont in the past but it’s more of a walk into town.

*Leith Walk, not Leith (also a great area but further away). Lots of cute cafes on that street as well as the tram which takes you all the way to the airport! Also very close to my favourite bookshop in Edinburgh, Toppings & Co.

Search accommodation options through Booking.com and book early if your dates fall around Halloween.

What to Pack for Edinburgh in Autumn

Edinburgh’s autumn weather doesn’t really do subtlety. You can get sun, wind and rain within the same afternoon, so layering is non-negotiable. A proper waterproof jacket will do more for you than an umbrella, since the wind tends to turn umbrellas inside out within about ten minutes of exposure to Princes Street.

A waterproof and a decent pair of walking shoes are worth having on hand before you go. The first time I went to Edinburgh in autumn for Halloween, my friend and I got SOAKED as we were out sightseeing during some strong rain. I was wearing Converse and a wooly cardigan!!! 🤡 I remember our CouchSurfing hosts even said on my review that we were delightful because even though we got drenched we were in a great mood. A testament to what an amazing city Edinburgh is, imho! 😅

Cosy Things to Do in Edinburgh in Autumn

Beyond the walks and the Halloween season itself, autumn is a good excuse to spend time indoors doing the things Edinburgh does well. A whisky tasting is the obvious one and there’s no shortage of options in the Old Town if you want a warm, dim room and something strong to hold while the weather does its thing outside.

I don’t know about you but one of my favourite cosy things to do is to go into bookshops! I’ve actually got a guide to some of the best bookshops in Edinburgh here if you want to check them out. Toppings is my favourite! But there are many great ones all around. (I’ve also got guides to bookshops in London and bookshops in Berlin, while we’re on the topic…)

For something a bit eerier and entirely indoors, the Real Mary King’s Close and the South Bridge Vaults both take you underground into parts of the old city that sit below the modern streets, with centuries of history embedded into them. Good option for when the rain sets in.

The National Museum of Scotland is another solid rainy-day choice and one I always enjoy going back to. It’s free to enter, huge and easy to lose a few hours in without meaning to.

Book a whisky tasting experience through GetYourGuide.

For a full sense of how to structure a longer trip around all of this, my Edinburgh 3-day itinerary covers the rest of the city beyond the autumn-specific stuff here.

If you’ve got extra time, Edinburgh also makes a brilliant base for day trips further afield, especially now that the countryside’s turning with the season too. I’ve got a full guide to day trips from Edinburgh, covering everywhere from Glasgow to St Andrews to the Highlands, if you want to build a longer trip around your visit.

Getting to Edinburgh

If you’re coming from London, the train is genuinely the easiest option, taking around 4.5 hours direct and dropping you at Waverley, right in the middle of the Old Town.

Compare train times and book through Omio for discounted tickets!

Final Thoughts

Edinburgh in autumn is really about three things: the colour in the gardens, the climb up Arthur’s Seat on a clear day and, if your timing lines up, Halloween itself. Both times I went during autumn (and winter, spring and summer too tbf!), the weather turned properly moody! Just don’t expect it to still be the quiet secret it was even a few years ago. Book ahead, especially for the last week of October.