It’s no secret to readers of this travel blog that Edinburgh is one of my favourite cities. Not just for its architecture, atmosphere, history, people…but Edinburgh is also a book lover’s dream. This is a city built on stories, arguments, poetry and marginalia scribbled in cafés. From grand old Georgian streets to cobbled closes in the Old Town, bookshops are woven into everyday life here. If you’re looking for the best bookshops in Edinburgh, especially independent and specialist ones, this guide will help you plan a very satisfying literary crawl.
Independent and Specialist Bookshops in Edinburgh
Armchair Books
Located just off the Royal Mile in the Old Town, Armchair Books is a glorious second-hand bookshop packed floor to ceiling with books. Expect narrow aisles, hidden corners and a treasure-hunt feeling that rewards patience.
You’ll find a strong selection of fiction, history, philosophy and travel writing alongside older and out-of-print editions. It’s one of those places where you go in for a browse and leave with three books you didn’t know you needed. Opening hours are generally daily, late morning to early evening. A few steps away from Mary’s Milk Bar which I have to URGE you to visit at least once in your life!
READ MORE: The Best 3-Day Edinburgh Itinerary For First Time Visitors
Tills Bookshop
Tills is a long-standing second-hand bookshop on Buccleuch Street, close to the University of Edinburgh. It has a more organised feel than some used bookshops, which makes it ideal if you’re searching for something specific.
The focus here is on literature, philosophy, politics and academic titles, making it popular with students and lecturers alike. Prices are fair and stock turnover is high. It’s usually open every day with slightly shorter hours on Sundays.
The Edinburgh Bookshop
Located in Bruntsfield, this is one of the best-loved independent bookshops in the city. The Edinburgh Bookshop has a strong community feel and an excellent selection of contemporary fiction, children’s books and Scottish writing.
It’s particularly good for book recommendations, with thoughtful staff picks throughout the shop. They also host regular author events and readings. Like most, it’s open every day.
Golden Hare Books
Golden Hare Books, in Stockbridge, is known for its beautifully curated selection and calm, welcoming atmosphere. This is the kind of shop where every title feels carefully chosen.
The focus is on literary fiction, non-fiction, nature writing and children’s books, with a strong emphasis on independent publishers. It’s a great stop if you’re exploring Stockbridge. It opens every day and it’s not too far from Dean Village which you definitely should visit while in Edinburgh!
Lighthouse Bookshop
Situated in Newington, Lighthouse Bookshop is a radical independent bookshop specialising in politics, feminism, social justice and philosophy.
It also doubles as a community space hosting talks, reading groups and events that reflect its activist roots. If you’re interested in challenging, thought-provoking books, this is one of the most important bookshops in Edinburgh. Open every day.
Typewronger Books
Typewronger Books is a small but mighty independent bookshop in Marchmont. It has a strong reputation for championing independent presses, experimental fiction and translated literature.
The shop has a loyal local following and regularly hosts events and book launches. It’s a great place to discover something a little different. Opening times are usually 11am – 9pm.
Toppings & Company Booksellers
And just a few steps down from Typewronger you’ll find my favourite bookshop in Edinburgh! Toppings & Co is a true book lover’s paradise. Set inside a stunning former banking hall on Leith Walk, the space features towering wooden shelves, rolling ladders and cosy reading nooks that make browsing feel like an experience rather than a task. The shop specialises in beautifully curated fiction and non-fiction, with particularly strong sections on history, travel, nature writing and literature, all selected by an exceptionally knowledgeable team.
Toppings is known for its old-world charm and warm, welcoming atmosphere and it’s definitely right at the top of many people’s list of one of the best bookshops in Edinburgh. They also often host regular author events and talks, making it feel like a living part of Edinburgh’s literary scene rather than just a retail space. It’s the kind of place you pop into “for five minutes” and leave an hour later with a stack of books and zero regrets.
They also have a branch in Bath that’s worth a visit!
Transreal Fiction
Transreal Fiction, located near the Grassmarket, specialises in science fiction, fantasy and horror. It’s a must-visit for genre readers.
Stock includes both new and second-hand books, with knowledgeable staff who really know their niches. The shop is compact but well organised, and browsing here is always rewarding. Please note they only open Wednesday to Saturday.
McNaughtan’s Bookshop
McNaughtan’s is one of Edinburgh’s oldest antiquarian bookshops, located on Leith Walk. This is a place for collectors and serious browsers.
You’ll find rare books, first editions and beautifully bound volumes across literature, history and science. Even if you’re not buying, it’s worth visiting just to admire the shelves. Open every day.
Gently Mad Bookshop
Tucked away steps away from the Royal Botanic Garden, Gently Mad Bookshop & Bookbinder feels like a secret. This independent bookshop focuses on second-hand and antiquarian books, with a particularly strong selection of Scottish history and literature.
It’s small, atmospheric and perfect for slow browsing. Opening hours are usually daytime, with occasional closures, so it’s worth checking ahead if it’s a must-visit. Google says they open evert day 11-5 but do check beforehand.
Main Point Books
Located steps away from Grassmarket, Main Point Books is a second-hand bookshop with a solid academic lean. It’s especially popular with students looking for affordable course-related reading.
Subjects include literature, history, philosophy and the sciences. Stock changes frequently and prices are reasonable. Opening times are generally Monday to Saturday 12-6.
Rare Birds Bookshop
Rare Birds Bookshop, located in Stockbridge, is Scotland’s first feminist bookshop. It specialises in books by women, non-binary and marginalised writers.
The selection spans fiction, non-fiction, poetry and children’s books, all curated with care and intention. It’s a welcoming space and a vital addition to Edinburgh’s literary landscape. Open every day from 10am.
The Portobello Bookshop
Just outside the city centre, The Portobello Bookshop is worth the short trip. It’s a bright, modern independent bookshop with an excellent children’s section.
The shop places a strong emphasis on community events and local authors. Pair a visit here with a walk along the promenade. Opening times are typically every day 10-6.
Elvis Shakespeare
Elvis Shakespeare is a long-running second-hand shop for books, records and comics near Haymarket. It’s packed, slightly chaotic and full of character.
Stock ranges from classic literature to obscure paperbacks, with music and film books also well represented. It’s a great place for affordable finds. Open every day except Monday.
The Fruitmarket Bookshop
Part of the Fruitmarket Gallery, this bookshop specialises in contemporary art, photography and visual culture.
Books here are beautifully produced and often harder to find elsewhere. It’s ideal for creatives and art lovers. Opening times follow gallery hours – every day from 9am to 6pm.
Scottish Poetry Library Bookshop
Located near the Royal Mile, the Scottish Poetry Library includes a bookshop dedicated to poetry from Scotland and beyond.
It’s an essential stop for poetry readers and writers, with knowledgeable staff and a peaceful atmosphere. Opening hours are Monday to Thursday 10am – 3pm.
Blackwell’s Edinburgh
While not independent, Blackwell’s on South Bridge deserves a mention for its academic focus and sheer scale.
The basement level is legendary among students, and the range of non-fiction is particularly strong. Opening hours are long and reliable, making it a useful anchor stop on any bookshop route.
Waterstones West End
Again, not independent, but the West End Waterstones is notable for its size, events programme and strong Scottish literature section.
If you’re combining independents with larger shops, this one fits well into a city-centre itinerary. Opening hours are daily, late morning to evening.
Black Moon Botanica
If you’re looking for witchy and occult books, head over to the magical and gorgeous shop Black Moon Botanica, aptly located on Candlemarker Row (a few steps away from Greyfriars Bobby!). Besides crystals, candles and any other magical supply you might need, you can find a pretty good selection of books on witchcraft, the occult and esoterica.
READ MORE: Ultimate Guide to the Best Bookshops in London
Is Edinburgh the Best City in the UK for Book Lovers?
With its literary history, festival culture and sheer density of bookshops, Edinburgh makes a very strong case. Whether you’re interested in rare books, radical politics, children’s literature or beautifully curated fiction, there’s a shop here that will feel made for you.
Many of the best bookshops in Edinburgh are within walking distance of each other, especially in areas like the Old Town, Stockbridge and Bruntsfield. Plan your route, leave space in your bag and don’t rush it.
Would you like to know more about literary locations in Edinburgh? Let me know in the comments!
